MCMASTER-CARR过滤器组件1953K999B在线库存
我们的过滤组件部门为汽车、声学、航空、电器和保健等行业提供创新设计的各种网布以地满足客户的要求。赛发根据应用和客户的要求特别定的过滤解决方案。
我们的高精密度网布使用单丝线制成，经过功能性的表面处理，比如特别为其最终用途设计的涂层。不同过滤介质的巧妙组合实现了多种多样的解决方案。
所有赛发产品都通过ISO9001和EN46001认证。根据客户要求或是在特殊应用中，与食品接触的赛发网布也符合食品与药品管理局（FDA）和/或RoHS和USP等欧盟指令的规定。
在汽车类的产品中，过滤器能够保护相关的机械和电子组件。赛发使用单丝网布制作高精密度筛网，用于安全过滤器中以保护阀门、泵和传感器。如果需要高耐沾污性，则需要深度过滤介质，比如燃料/车用尿素过滤器。根据最新的汽车行业标准（IATF 16949），在公司的汽车洁净室紧密监控下生产。

声学

在声学产品中，我们良的网布提供稳定可靠的声学性能，同时也保护敏感组件不沾染污物、颗粒和液体。

凭借强大的声阻抗，我们的网布在各种扬声器和麦克风中实现了最佳的声学和音质效果。

航空

在航空行业，赛发的网布解决方案可以将无用的水分从煤油中分离。它们也用于液压和气动系统，和降低引擎噪音。

电器

过滤器组件过滤洗涤水并包括多个排水过滤器。

The filter module filters the washing water, and includes a plurality of drainage filters.

i

该过滤器组件是由含有纳米银的纳米银过滤器的多个过滤器结合构成。

And the filter groupware are constructed by a plurality of filters besides the nanometer argent filter containing the nanometer argent.

i

然后，多个这种滤筒可彼此嵌套并且被合适的排气流引导挡板分开，以形成颗粒过滤器组件。

A plurality of such cartridges can then be nested within each other and separated by appropriate exhaust gas flow directing baffles to form a particulate filter assembly. 

一些较粗糙的网布被用作电器中水和咖啡的过滤器。空调、洗衣机和空气过滤器、真空清洁器和吹风机通常也利用赛发网布出色的质量和长使用寿命。

医疗保健

医疗部门为诊断试纸、输液器和血液过滤器、绷带和植入物以及多种其他应用提供解决方案。这些应用要求最高的质量标准（ISO 13485，ISO10993, USP VI）并在赛发的7级洁净室加工制成。

膜

在的过滤技术中，越来越多地结合使用膜和我们的网布。
多样选择

凭借全球各地的子公司，我们的专家很乐于帮助您选择您应用的过滤器网布或孔径。根据确定的颗粒尺寸，我们能提供用于液体和气体的不同颗粒过滤效率。此外 ，公司给客户提供关于流率和压差的*化建议，并评估过滤器与您具体的过滤装置之间的兼容性。我们网布的特性也可通过添加功能性表面处理（等离子处理）来进行补充。

  MCMASTER-CARR过滤器组件1953K999B在线库存

过滤组件部门的所有细分市场使用各种不同的网布。这些网布包括SEFAR MEDITEX和密网SEFAR MEDIFAB，以及从SEFAR NITEX(PA)、SEFAR PEEKTEX(PEEK)，SEFAR S-TEX和SEFAR PETEX（PET）密的SEFAR ACOUNSTIC和SEFAR METALEN网布。这些网布根据订单制作，并以卷状和带状、模塑件、过滤袋、线带和分液产品等形式供应。One day my eyeglasses (Warby Parker brand) mysteriously developed a grazing on both lenses. My theory is that it resulted from wearing them under ski goggles on a very cold day on the slopes in Utah and then quickly removing the goggles, causing a rapid temperature change in the plastic lens. I believe it’s possible that the relative difference in thermal expansion between a coating on the lens and the lens itself causes the coating to develop micro cracks across the surface. Whatever the reason, I ended up with glasses that I could barely see through. I have quite poor eyesight, so really need my glasses for pretty much everything. What to do?
My first attempt at correction was to go into the Warby Parker store and ask if they could polish my lenses. (I assumed this was a standard procedure. It’s not.) The store said they would replace the lenses under warranty if less than a year old. (Mine were three years old.) They said they’d replace the lenses at modest cost (maybe $50?) but that this would take a couple of weeks. I was traveling, couldn’t do without the glasses and didn’t have a spare pair. I was then planning to order a new pair, but needed a new eye exam, etc. etc.

So, I decided I needed to take matters into my own hands. Youtube andno real help. (Thus, this post; hoping it’s helpful to others.) The first thing I tried was polishing the lenses with a slurry of water and toothpaste, just using my index finger. This sort-of worked…at least giving me an area in the center of the lens I could sort of see out of. I discovered, however, that there are at least two different coatings on the lens and it’s not easy to remove both with an index finger and toothpaste.

Here’s what finally worked. I bought from Amazon a cordless dremel tool, some felt polishing heads, and cerium dioxide polishing compound. You can see the items in the photo. I then used a slurry of water and the polishing compound with the Dremel tool to polish the lenses. It takes 10 minutes or so and you must be very careful to keep everything wet so the lens doesn’t overheat and melt. But, the result is really good. I can see again. You can see in the second photo the edge of the lens and the transition from the region where the coating has been removed and the still-coated area. (I am going to get new glasses, so didn’t get too persnickety about removing every bit of coating.)
I finally had a few minutes to sort my actual construction expenses and put them in some reasonable categories. This is a brief summary of the construction costs.

First, the basic parameters of the house:

    4348 sq-ft of space, including the garage
    3-level “walk-out” design
    2092 sq-ft footprint
    4 bedrooms
    Cathedral ceilings in upper levels
    5 bathrooms
    Enclosed deck on upper level
    Front and rear paver terraces

The total construction costs were $619,000. This is every dime I spent from the time we applied for a permit to the time we received the certificate of occupancy. It does not include the design fees (architect + structural engineer), which were about $60,000. It also does not include the cost of about 15 trips from Philadelphia to Utah, which cost about $10,000.

The cost comes out to $142/sq-ft of enclosed space. The square footage includes the garage but does not include the enclosed deck off the master bedroom, nor the covered terrace. I believe the calculation should include the garage, because the garage basically has the identical finishes as the rest of the house (same concrete, framing, drywall, paint, windows, casing, electrical, etc.).

In many ways calculating by the square foot is misleading. So, I’m providing a lot of detail on the costs by category in the following PDF file. This breaks down the costs by item with the usual “units” that are used to calculate the costs. For instance, the counter tops cost $7489 and comprised 135 sq-ft for a cost of $55/sq-ft.

ParkCityHouse-Costs-2010 (PDF File)

If I had been on site full time and done all the GC work myself, I might have saved another $40k, which is what I paid my friend to coordinate the job.

I believe that if I had hired a conventional general contractor for this job, it would have cost quite a bit more, but I don’t know how much more for sure. My guess is that the bids would have come in at around $750k and that the change orders would have pushed the total cost to $800k.

My original budget was $550k. I expected to spend at least $50k more, because that’s what happens…and that is basically what happened.

The “just in case” and “nice to have”  items I added (mostly during the design phase) and which pushed up the cost were:

    Snow bars above hot tub .
    Cool-vent ventilated roofing panels 
    Ice shield on the entire roof     Heat recovery ventilator instead of normal bath fans.
    Spray foam insulation.
    Granite or quartz on all counter surfaces and vanities
    Handmade backsplash tile $1000
    CVG fir doors (instead of a less expensive species)
    Programmable “landlord” thermostats in 9 heating zones
    5/8″ drywall instead of 1/2″ drywall     Ipe decking instead of synthetic wood decking 
Thus, I think if pennies were pinched, this house could have been built for about  less.

The only other way to have fundamentally changed the cost structure of this house would have been to engineer out the steel, which probably would have required manufactured roof trusses instead of the conventional rafter and truss system we used, and some changes to a few walls. We could also have supported the front terrace awning/roof with columns instead of the “store front” tie rods. These actions together might have taken out another $15k.

Still, I’m glad I didn’t pinch the pennies and I’m glad I didn’t do the roof or awning differently. Thek is worth it for what are some of the most distinctive features of the house. All things considered, $142/sq-ft is a screaming deal for a highly custom contemporary home like this. 
  MCMASTER-CARR过滤器组件1953K999B在线库存